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In July, a new city law will require some restaurants to start posting calorie counts on their menu boards—but only eateries with standardized “portion size, formulation, and ingredients.” In other words, fast-food joints. The idea, the health department says, is the same as the rationale behind the trans-fat and smoking bans: to create a slimmer, healthier populace. But what about the city’s high-end dining palaces, the Per Ses and Del Postos, the Morimotos and Morandis? Aren’t their meals every bit as laden with fat and calories as, say, a Big Mac?